Digital Photography Secrets & Tips

How to Take Great Flower Photos

2007-11-27T16:04:00.000+08:00

I know that many out there want to improve their photography in one aspect. Flower photography. With gardening as popular as it is this shouldn’t be a surprise. Flower photography while looking like one of the simplest forms of photography can quickly become one of the most difficult. Here are a few tips for you. (Keeping in mind that basic good photography skills are always used.)

1. Soft diffuse light. Today it’s very overcast outside, and if there were any flowers in bloom today would be the perfect day for capturing some great images. Soft diffuse light enhances color saturation, so if you wondered how or why pro photographers flower images seem so deep in color this is one of the reasons why. (There are exceptions to this rule. I do some flower photography is bright or dappled sunlight but I’m usually trying to get an effect of light passing through the petals.)

2. Slow film speed. 200 speed or less. The slower speed films have greater detail and for flowers you’re going to need to get close anyway and you want the nice sharp detail of a slower speed of film. I use 100 speed for my flower photography.

3. Tripod. Use one for this type of photography. Set up your shot, get everything in sharp focus, and then shoot. A tripod will keep your camera from moving on you and allow you to get the sharp detail you will need.

4. Look for great colors, a flower in full bloom next to a bud, and don’t shoot on windy days. Keep contrast and color in mind at all times and try different compositions each time you take a shot.

Flower photography can be a lot of fun especially if the flowers are your own.

How to Compose Landscapes

2007-05-17T21:35:00.000+08:00

by: Jan Linden

There really are no effective formulas for composing good landscapes. Nonetheless, the general suggestions that follow can probably help you get better ones.

1. Every landscape should have a focal point. This is the center of interest, the part of the picture your eye is drawn to. It can be a distant mountain, the facade of a building, or a clump of trees. Without a focal point, your landscape will likely fall flat.

2. Make sure the subject is big enough. If you use a wide-angle lens, a distant focal point such as a mountain may be too small or the sea may seem to trail off into nothing but water. Your eye seeks a center of interest. If there is none, it will simply wander off to infinity because there is nothing in the picture to hold your attention. A small main subject can express the vastness and grandeur of a scene, but if this isn't your aim, move closer to the main subject and reframe the shot. If the main subject is still too far away or you can't get closer, use a longer lens.

3. Let the subject guide your approach. If the main subject area contains people, experiment with placing them nearer or farther from the camera to achieve different-sized images. Some images can be more effective if they look large and overpowering. Small figures emphasize the vastness of a woodland area.

4. Pay attention to subject placement. Impressive or dynamic subjects (for example, the plant in picture on left) can often be centrally placed. Medium-sized landscape images are usually more effective when placed off-center (such as leaves and tree trunks in picture above).

5. Consider framing your subject. Dramatic central subjects generally don't require framing, but other landscape subjects are usually improved by framing. Without some framing, the main subject at a distance appears lost in the enlarged print or projection. The foremost framing device is foliage. An arch, doorway, or natural rock formation can also serve as a useful frame to lead the viewer's eye.

6. Keep the frame in focus. In landscape photography, it's important that both the frame and the subject be sharp. Visually, an out-of-focus frame is usually disturbing and draws attention away from the main subject. If depth of field is insufficient, shift the focus point or stop the lens down.

7. Create the illusion of depth. Giving the feeling of three-dimensional space enhances landscapes. Placing different subjects or framing elements at different planes helps the picture hold the viewer.

8. Use contrasting colors. A subject wearing a bright red, blue, or yellow jacket that's carefully placed within a landscape can perk up a dullish scene. Usually, such subjects should be kept at a sufficient distance within the picture frame or they will tend to take over and dominate the entire picture.

9. Keep your camera level. Almost all good landscapes are made with the camera held as level as possible. Don't be tempted to point your lens up too far. If you do, you will create apparent perspective distortion, and objects will appear to be falling over backward. The closer you are to your main subject, the more important this is. Use a shoe-mounted bubble level.

How to Take Big Suns in Photography

2007-05-15T18:52:00.000+08:00

by: Jan Linden

Sure, these pictures may border on cliches, but they are cliches that never fail to grab us. We're all suckers for that frame-filling drama of Ol' Sol looming large on the horizon.

And we all know how to get those shots of big suns - just shoot the horizon with that fabulously expensive, super-speed, extralow-dispersion glass, apochromatic tele, right?

Wrong. You need a long lens, sure, but it needn't be a budget buster. Some very good 500mm mirror lenses come in under $200, store price. There are all-glass 400mm, 500mm, and 600mm designs from major independents that sell for $300-500. And you can make an existing tele longer by using a teleconverter. That fine 300mm f/4 you bought for nature work, for example, can be converted to a 600mm f/8 with a 2X converter. That's a pretty good focal length for big suns. Using a 3X converter will make a 900mm f/12, and so on.

Besides a tele, you need a sturdy tripod - flimsy travel models need not apply. For one thing, focusing and framing through a long tele is far easier if the rig is well supported. For another thing, even a little shake can blur a long-tele shot.

A spot or limited-area meter helps, although it is not essential. An overall meter reading with an SLR will generally be far too high, resulting in a shot that's too dark - even if the desired effect is a silhouette. Most big-sun shooters use the strategy of spotmetering an area of the sky near but not immediately adjacent to the sun - an area in which some sky tone appears. This will give you a silhouette reading that will still maintain a little shadow detail.

And how do you focus and compose with that big burning disk staring you right in the eye? First, if everything in your frame is a long distance from the camera, setting the lens to infinity is the easiest way to focus without being dazzled. Otherwise, you may prefocuse the camera with the sun just out of the frame. You can often recompose the scene by holding your eye a little away from the finder to avoid being temporarily blinded by the sun.

The best big-sun shots are the ones that don't rely solely on the sun; the big sun, in fact, is best used as a background. The landscape, the harbor scene, the city skyline - each picture should stand on its own for it to work with a big sun behind it.

There is a pitfall here, though. Even with objects at a far distance, they can still be out of the plane of focus of the sun, due to the effective shallow depth of long lenses. Generally, the sun can stand to be a little soft, so try focusing on the nearest large object in the composition. Also, use small apertures and check the depth-of-field preview.

Big-sun shots can, on occasion, be surprisingly colorless; the sky around the sun can range from blank white to dull gray. A filter is called for here, from the standard warming (81A and similar) for a warm sky tone, to amber for richer color, to full orange for an exaggerated effect.

Photographing Memories of a Trip

2007-05-10T14:51:00.000+08:00

Tell a Story
Always think how your prints will look when you show them to your friends and relatives. You'll be narrating a story at the time so take shots to illustrate your story. Take photos of your traveling companions before you leave home, while traveling to the airport, and when you get back. Hopefully you'll see a change in your sun tan! Photograph yourselves in front of "Welcome to..." signs to use as "chapter headings."

Take a Small Camera
Despite having a lot of large 'professional' equipment, the camera I use most often with friends is a small, "compact" camera. I have a really tiny model that I can slip easily into a pocket and carry around with me. That way, whenever something unexpected and fun happens, I'm ready to capture the moment.

Photographing People
The most useful tip for photographing people is to get closer. Try and fill the frame with just the faces. Ask your subjects to stand or sit closer together, so there's less "wasted" space in the photo. Turn the flash on, even when you're outdoors, to highlight the faces.

Understand Your Flash
I often see people trying to photograph a live show or concert. Unfortunately this is almost impossible to do with a normal camera. Most on-camera flash units are only effective for about eight to ten feet - anything further away will just appear black on the photo. Whenever you use a flash indoors, make sure that you're between two and eight feet from your subject.

Don't Forget the Fun!
Many of the fun times occur between sights. Capture these with "ordinary" shots - checking in, waiting in line, at the shops, having dinner with friends, with people you meet.

Don't Forget You!
The problem with being the photographer is that you don't appear in the photos. Stand your camera on a wall or table and use the self-timer feature, or ask someone else to take the photo. Chances are they'll have a camera too and will ask you to return the favor!

What Makes A Postcard-Perfect Photograph?

2007-05-08T21:38:00.000+08:00

Four elements are common to all good photographs: simplicity, composition, lighting, and practice.

Simplicity is actually a deceptively difficult element to capture. What you as a photographer need to do is let the camera help you simplify the things you see in front of you. You begin with a very busy canvas (everything in view) and have to work to simplify by eliminating some of the contents. You can do this either by getting physically closer to your subject, or by using a telephoto lens to zoom in and crop the shot tighter. When you photograph a person, for example, photograph his or her face only, rather than the whole person.

Composition is equally important. An artist's technique, called the "golden mean," is to divide the picture into imaginary thirds both vertically and horizontally, like a tic-tac-toe board. Then, place the subject of the photo on or near those imaginary lines or their intersections. Study photographs that you like and you'll see that almost every one has thirds that you can find.

Lighting is the third key ingredient. Photos that win competitions almost always show a skilled use of light. Try to photograph only at dawn, in the late afternoon, and at dusk, when the low angle of the sun produces rich, warm colors and long shadows. Avoid shooting at noon, a time when light is very "flat."

Practice: Taking photographs that you like won't take a lot of special, expensive equipment. But it will take lots of trial and error. Even professional photographers take many photographs of the same subject to get just one that they like. Remember, only practice makes perfect!

Special Effects With Point-and-Shoot Camera

2007-05-03T19:39:00.000+08:00

By Andrew Hudson

Question: What are some tricks and special effects I can try with my basic camera?

Answer: Even if you have the cheapest, most basic camera, you can still do many of the special-effects that professionals do with more expensive cameras.

Filters
You can use any filter (colored or distorted glass or plastic that camera shops sell for about $10-$20) but make sure it covers the lens and, if you have one, the exposure window (a small window near the lens) so that your pictures get exposed correctly. Red, orange and blue filters can make striking images while a soft-focus or fog filter adds a romantic touch to faces and water. You can even make you own filter with a colored plastic bag or glass.

Colored Flash
You can also use colored filters over the flash instead of the lens (professionals call these "gels"). For a Halloween party, try using a red filter over the flash to make people look even more scary!

Old World
One of my favorites effects uses a sepia filter. The light-brown color makes your pictures look old and classic.

Mirrors
Magicians use mirrors and you can too. Take a photo of yourself by pointing into a window. Or include both halves of a room by using a mirror in half of the shot.

Shoot Underwater
If you're on vacation at the beach, take an underwater shot while swimming. Place your camera in a clear plastic bag, remove most of the air, and seal well. Now you can photograph underwater! (Be careful, any water entering the bag will damage the camera).

How To Photograph Sunsets

2007-04-28T13:55:00.000+08:00

Avoid The Sun

The biggest problem with sunsets is the sun. It's just too bright. Unlike human eyes, cameras cannot handle high contrasts, particularly highlights such as a bright sun. So including the sun in a photograph will usually give you a picture of a big white splodge. Your picture will be overexposed with little color or detail.

There's no easy way around this, so the trick is to either wait until the sun is on the horizon (when it's dimmer), or photograph the sunset without the sun. Look for clouds to obscure the sun or photograph a part of the sky away from the sun.

Shoot The Sunset After Sunset

The sky often has the most color after the sun has set (the "afterglow"). Pick a day when there's a sprinkling of very high, whispy clouds as they'll turn a bright golden color about 15-30 minutes after sunset.

Find A Foreground

Pictures of just the sky can be boring so find a simple foreground to add depth and interest. Your foreground will be silhouetted, so find a subject that has an interesting outline set against the sky or reflecting water. In these examples I used piers and palm trees.

Anything below the sky (or reflecting water) will not be visible in the photograph (it'll just be black) so crop it out. Position the horizon low in your frame so that you capture just the colorful sky and any reflecting water.

To photograph people, get within ten feet of them and use a flash ("fill-flash") to add light on their faces.

Filters

I take some shots with no filter and some with an FL-D (magenta), to add some purple to the sky. I've tried other filters but they just tend to mess up the delicate colors.

Watch for Clouds

Clouds add magic to a sunset. The way the light beams through, or reflects off these changing formations is wonderful. Generally you want a scattering of clouds above you, but no clouds (clear weather) on and past the horizon (allowing the sun to shine through). Low clouds are tricky as they often obscure the sun and, even when they don't, their colors come and go quickly. High whispy clouds are my favorite. They light up later, for a longer period of time, and over a larger portion of the sky.

By Andrew Hudson

Outdoor Wedding Photography Slideshow

2007-04-24T23:41:00.000+08:00

Outdoor Wedding Photography as captured by Azam Aziz of Azam Photography

10 Tips For Better Pictures

2007-04-24T16:37:00.000+08:00

By Andrew Hudson

1. Hold It Steady

A problem with many photographs is that they're blurry. Avoid 'camera shake' by holding the camera steady. Use both hands, resting your elbows on your chest, or use a wall for support. Relax: don't tense up. You're a marksman/woman holding a gun and it must be steady to shoot.

2. Put The Sun Behind You

A photograph is all about light so always think of how the light is striking your subject. The best bet is to move around so that the sun is behind you and to one side. This front lighting brings out color and shades, and the slight angle (side lighting) produces some shadow to indicate texture and form.

3. Get Closer

The best shots are simple so move closer and remove any clutter from the picture. If you look at most 'people' shots they don't show the whole body so you don't need to either. Move close, fill the frame with just the face, or even overflow it. Give your shot some impact. Use a zoom to crop the image tighter.

4. Choose A Format

Which way you hold the camera affects what is emphasized in your shot. For tall things (Redwoods, Half Dome) a vertical format emphasize height. Use a horizontal format to show the dramatic sweep of the mountains.

5. Include People

Photographs solely of landscape and rocks are enjoyable to take but often dull to look at. Include some of your friends, companions, family, or even people passing by, to add human interest. If there's no one around, include yourself with the self-timer.
Have you ever got your photos back only to discover that something that looked awe-inspiring at the time looks dull on paper? This is because your eye needs some reference point to judge scale. Add a person, car, or something of known size to indicate the magnitude of the scenery.

6. Consider Variety

You may take the greatest shots but if they're all the same type or style, they may be dull to look at. Spice up your collection by adding variety. Include landscapes and people shots, close ups and wide angles, good weather and bad weather. Take personal shots that remember the 'being there' - friends that you meet, your hotel/campsite, transportation, street or hiking signposts.

7. Add Depth

Depth is an important quality of good photographs. We want the viewer to think that they're not looking at a flat picture, but through a window, into a three-dimensional world. Add pointers to assist the eye. If your subject is a distant mountain, add a person or a tree in the foreground. A wide angle lens can exaggerate this perspective.

8. Use Proportion

The beauty of an image is often in its proportions. A popular technique with artists is called the Rule of Thirds. Imagine the frame divided into thirds, both horizontally and vertically, like a Tic-Tac-Toe board. Now place your subject on one of the lines or intersections. Always centering your subject can get dull. Use the Rule of Thirds to add variety and interest.

9. Search For Details

It's always tempting to use a wide angle lens and 'get everything in'. However, this can be too much and you may loose the impact. Instead, zoom in with a longer lens and find some representative detail. A shot of an entire sequoia tree just looks like a tree. But a shot of just the tree's wide base, with a person for scale, is more powerful.

10. Position The Horizon

Where you place the horizon in your shot affects what is emphasized. To show the land, use a high horizon. To show the sky, use a low horizon. Be creative.

Digital Photography Lesson - Compositing 2 of 4

2007-04-09T10:34:00.000+08:00

Digital Photography Lesson - Compositing 1 of 4

2007-04-09T10:27:00.000+08:00

If you want to learn more about taking great photography, this is the show. This one is about compositing. I hope everybody would view this video to learn more about compositing... have fun!

Tawaran Pakej Foto Perkahwinan 2007

2007-03-08T22:43:00.000+08:00

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Composing Great Photos at the Beach or a National Park

2007-02-15T22:59:00.000+08:00

by David Peterson

How do you get the best shots when you're out and about? Here are some secrets for taking shots at the beach and inside National Parks.

Taking Photos At The Beach

The beach is a fantastic place to not only photograph your family and friends having fun, but you can get some good landscape photography of the beaches or hills as well.
· When taking photos of sandcastles, drop down to the same level as the sandcastle and ensure your family is at the same level
· The summer sun will usually be very bright and harsh. The best light will usually be in the late afternoon or early morning.
· Take your telephoto lens if you have one. Pictures of surfers work really well in closeup.
· Watch for beach animals such as crabs and photograph them using your Macro function.
· Try standing in the water, keeping your camera close to the water and shooting towards the beach for an unusual shot.
· Keep the flash on. This will "fill in" the shadows on their faces (particularly if your subjects are wearing hats)
· Be careful with your camera, as sand and salt water are very harmful substances to get inside your camera!

Taking Photos At National Parks

Natural wonders abound in National Parks. There's so much to photograph: The Animals, Scenery, Your Family!
· When photographing wondrous scenery like waterfalls, focus on that subject but don't make it the only thing in your photograph. Include some sky, or a person for scale.
· Again, keep the flash on to help with shadows on your subject's faces.
· Take advantage of the scenery. When photographing your family and friends, include something of the surrounding area in the photograph as well.
· Try different angles to see if you can make the shot more interesting. Eg shooting upwards from ground level.

Lighting Secrets

2006-09-06T18:52:00.000+08:00

by David Peterson

Almost as important as composition is the use of light. Here are some secrets for using light.

# The best outdoors light to be found is at dawn and dusk. Here the light is not as bright as midday, and the sun produces some wonderful reds. Both these help to make a normally ordinary shot look magic by creating a warm glow.

#When you are shooting outdoors, the best way to shoot is away from the sun. Don't have the sun in your photographs because it will overpower the colors and ensure the side of your subject facing the camera is in shadow. Ensure the sun is behind your back.

#Another thing to watch out for is that your subject doesn't squint. We all love to see bright wide eyes, so ensure the sun isn't too bright. This is another reason to shoot at dawn or dusk - you can have the subject facing the sun but not squinting... and you get much better colors in your image at the same time!

#If shooting in sunlight, watch for shadows. Look at the shadow cast by your subject and ensure it doesn't block anything, or look unsightly. Additionally, ensure your own shadow doesn't fall into the picture!

#The best night shots are taken just after sunset. This is where scenes are lit up as if it were night, but there is still a tiny bit of sunlight around to help light the scene and bring out the detail.

#When indoors, try moving your lighting sources around. Lights at lower angles are usually more dramatic than plain overhead lighting.

#Remember the secret about using your flash during the day? It's also possible on most digital cameras to take night shots without a flash. Try setting your ISO speed to 800 or above to ensure the camera is sensitive to very low light.

#Need to use the flash, but it's a bit harsh? Try taping some wax paper over the flash to diffuse the light.

#Want to light a very small object? If you're using your macro setting to take a shot, cut up a plastic milk container and place it around the object. It will diffuse the surrounding light.

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Clean your Camera

2006-08-14T13:14:00.000+08:00

by David Peterson

If your images always turn out all blurry, it may mean your lens needs a clean. Most high end cameras come with threads to which you can attach a SkyLight (or UV) filter. This helps to protect the lens from not only dirt, but scratches. Cheaper cameras don't have threads so remember to cover the lens when not in use and try not to touch it.

Don't clean the lens too often - depending on how often you use your camera, every few weeks or few months is fine. To clean your lens, pick up a lens cleaning kit from your local photo store. Use the lens brush and air blower to remove any loose clinging particles. Place a drop of lens cleaning fluid onto some lens tissue (or a cloth) and wipe the lens clean with a circular motion. Use the blower to dry the lens, or let it dry naturally. Don't use any abrasive solution (such as soap) or wipe too hard on the lens as you can wipe away the special coatings.

Watch out you don't create a 'worn spot' by cleaning your lens the same way each time. Alternate the circular motion with up and down or sideways movements sometimes.

Ensure you protect the other parts of your camera as well. Particularly the Memory Card slot and Battery contacts. If you find they have any corrosion, you can remove it easily with a pencil eraser. Make sure you remove the excess eraser that can get left in the compartment with an air blower. Never ever insert anything into the memory card slot that isn't meant to be there, as you could break the small pins. To keep clean, it's best to leave a memory card in the slot, or at least keep the cover closed.

PESANAN PENAJA

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ISO EXPLAINED

2006-08-11T08:04:00.000+08:00

You are probably familiar with ISO on film used in a film camera. It's the 'speed' of the film - higher ISO values mean you can take photos in lower light.

But what about in the digital world?

Surprisingly, there is an ISO setting on your Digital camera. And although there is no longer any film, the ISO setting still plays a vital role.

ISO indicates your digital camera's sensitivity to light. The higher the number, the less light is needed to take a photo that is bright enough (correctly exposed).
In bright light (like the middle of a sunny day), you'll normally use ISO 50 or ISO 100. These are the lowest settings and can be used because there is lots of light around.
However, in lower light, your camera needs some help. There are two ways of doing this:

Decrease Shutter Speed
With a slower shutter speed, the camera has more time to 'take in' the amount of light it needs. Unfortunately though, the slower the shutter speed, the more chance that your images will turn out blurry.

Increase ISO
Rather than decrease the shutter speed, you can increase the ISO. As I said above, this will increase the sensitivity of the camera which means you can get the same shot with less light entering the camera. Thus the shutter speed can be kept low enough to avoid blurry images.
As increasing the ISO will increase the shutter speed, a high ISO will also help when taking fast moving sports shots. You'll get clear, crisp shots with no blur.
However, I still recommend you use the lowest ISO possible. Why?

Problems of using a high ISO
Using a higher ISO means the camera has less light to work with. Unfortunately this also means that 'noise' is introduced into your camera. If you'd like to find out exactly what noise is and how to eliminate it, check out the free bonus on noise that comes with my Digital Photo Secrets book.
Your camera's highest one or two ISO values will produce a lot of noise in your image, so I suggest avoiding them unless the light is so low that you have no other choice.

Auto ISO
Fortunately most of the time you don't need to worry about selecting the correct ISO. Most cameras have an "Auto ISO" setting. With Auto ISO, the camera will look at the amount of light in the scene and change the ISO appropriately so that the shutter speed doesn't get too slow.

ISO Values
If you choose to use a manual ISO, what values should you use?
ISO 50-100. Suitable for bright light (like outdoors on a sunny day.
ISO 200. Great for overcast or cloudy days. However on budget cameras some noise will be seen in your image.
ISO 400 and above. Use for indoor or night shots (even if you use a flash). Also useful to freeze the action in sports shots. These values will produce the most noise.
Noise in digital cameras is a huge problem, and one we'll have to live with for a while. Find out what causes noise, and how to avoid it with a brand new free bonus that comes with my "Digital Photography Secrets" book. I even show you how to use a leading noise reduction program to fix noisy images you've already taken!

Taken from : Digital Photography Secrets
by Davide Peterson
(www.digital-photo-secrets.com)

Apa Itu Aperture

2006-07-20T17:00:00.000+08:00

Aperture berfungsi untuk mengawal kemasukan cahaya. Ia perlu diselaraskan untuk mendapat lubang atau saiz yg dikehendaki. Saiz-saiz aperture ini diukur dalam nombor 'f' atau 'f stop'.

Saiz aperture yg kecil membenarkan hanya sedikit cahaya memasuki kamera (melalui lensa) berbanding dengan aperture yg besar. Setiap nombor 'f' disusun dalam bentuk atau bidang skala aperture 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16. Semakin besar nombor 'f', semakin kecil saiz bukaan aperture.

Apabila kita menukar dari f/4 ke f/5.6 atau f/5.6 ke f/8, cahaya yg memasuki kamera adalah separuh (1/2) dari cahaya nombor 'f' yg sebelumnya. Pertukaran ini adalah dari saiz aperture yg besar ke saiz aperture yg kecil. Penukaran dari saiz aperture yg kecil ke saiz yg besar adalah sebaliknya. Bidang skala aperture adalah berbeza antara sebuah lensa dengan lensa yg lain. Lazimnya, perbezaan ini bergantung pada harga dan model lensa serta kamera.

Pertukaran dari f/2 ke f/16 akan mengecilkan saiz aperture. Secara tidak langsung, cahaya yg memasuki lensa akan berkurangan.

Penggambaran ditepi pantai atau dibawah cahaya matahari terik memerlukan saiz aperture yg kecil (f/16 atau f/22). Ini bermakna untuk menahan cahaya yg berlebihan dari masuk ke dalam kamera, kita perlu mengecilkan saiz aperture. Apabila keadaan cahaya kurang atau di dalam bilik yang agak gelap, besarkan saiz aperture (f/2.8 atau f/2) untuk membolehkan lebih banyak cahaya memasuki lensa.

Mengelirukan? Selamat berfotografi!

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Apa Itu Shutter Speed

2006-07-12T10:08:00.000+08:00

Bagi beginnerz yg nak tahu apa itu Shutter Speed dan kegunaannya, saya perturunkan disini secara ringkas untuk menambah pengetahuan anda.

Shutter speed bermakna sebanyak mana cahaya memasuki kamera mengikut kadar masa atau kelajuannya. Kelajuan yg pantas akan membenarkan sedikit cahaya memasuki kamera dan boleh memberhentikan atau mengkakukan sesuatu pergerakan. Kelajuan yang lemah atau kurang, akan mendedahkan lebih banyak cahaya. Tapi ia tidak sesuai utk mengkakukan sesuatu pergerakan kerana kelajuan itu akan mengaburkan pergerakan objek tersebut. Sekiranya anda mahu memberhentikan larian seorang atlit, penunggang basikal atau apa saja objek yg bergerak, gunakan kelajuan yg pantas atau tinggi seperti 1/500 atau 1/1000 saat. Kelajuan pantas sebegini juga boleh membekukan percikan air atau kereta F1 di atas trek. Sebaliknya jika mahukan kesan khas pada gambar anda, gunakan kelajuan yg rendah seperti 1/50 atau 1/30 dan seterusnya. Kelajuan perlahan juga sesuai utk melakukan kaedah "panning", dengan mengambil gambar mengikut arah pergerakan subjek. Ia juga sesuai untuk mengambil gambar di waktu senja atau malam.

Selamat mencuba & selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 16

2006-07-03T17:01:00.000+08:00

PENGGAMBARAN WAKTU MALAM

Waktu malam juga mempunyai keindahannya yg tersendiri. Seperti penggambaran pada waktu siang, penggambaran waktu malam juga mempunyai teknik-teknik yang tertentu untuk menghasilkan gambar yg menarik dan indah.

Untuk mengambil gambar di jalanraya yang terdapat lampu kereta yg sedang bergerak, dicadangkan anda utk setkan kombinasi dedahan ke f5.6 dan kelajuan shutter selama 20 saat.
Jika hendak mengambil gambar bulan penuh, setkan dedahan aperture kepada f5.6 dan kelajuan shutter 1/500 dengan menggunakan ISO 100 atau 200. Masa terbaik untuk mengambil gambar waktu malam ialah semasa matahari baru saja terbenam tetapi menampakkan sedikit warna dilangit. Jika di awal pagi, cahaya yang baru menyelinap keluar bercampur dengan kabus boleh menimbulkan suasana mistik. Teknik silhouatte juga mudah dihasilkan pada waktu subuh atau senja. Penggunakan tripod amat digalakkan untuk penggambaran begini untuk mengelakkan gegaran atau goyangan pada kamera.

Cahaya yang datang dari banyak sumber seperti lampu jalan, lampu kalimantang, mentol, lampu kereta, lampu bangunan dan sebagainya memberi efek yang berbeza pada kamera anda sekaligus menjadikan gambar anda lebih menarik.

Bagaimana dengan permainan bunga api di KLCC yang di sambut semasa malam kemerdekaan, sudahkah anda cuba untuk merakamkannya. Kerana dengan kombinasi kelajuan shutter dan aperture yang betul, ia boleh menghasilkan gambar percikan yang sangat mempesonakan. Cubalah...

Selamat Berfotografi...

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RAHSIA 15

2006-06-29T12:15:00.000+08:00

ALAM SEMULAJADI

Alam semulajadi terbahagi kepada 2 jenis, iaitu haiwan-haiwan seperti haiwan peliharaan atau haiwan liar, dan juga tumbuh-tumbuhan. Anda juga boleh menggabungkan haiwan dan tumbuhan untuk menghasilkan idea fotografi bagi tema ini.

Untuk mengambil gambar haiwan, jgn memakai wangian yg kuat kerana haiwan mempunyai deria bau yg kuat. Ia akan lari sebelum anda sempat mengambil gambar. Anda dinasihatkan memilih waktu yg sesuai utk mengambil gambar haiwan seperti waktu sedang makan atau berehat. Kesabaran amat diperlukan sewaktu mengambil gambar haiwan atau tumbuhan. Masa yg berjam-jam lamanya mungkin diperlukan utk mengambil gambar seekor burung. Anak-anak kucing suka bermain dengan gulungan benang. Kenapa tidak cuba mengambil gambar sedemikian?

Gunakan saiz apperture yang besar supaya latar belakang nampak kabur sekaligus menonjolkan subjek utama anda. Menggunakan lens telefoto 200mm atau 300mm adalah sangat sesuai untuk mendapatkan close-up subjek anda. Anda tidak perlu ke tengah hutan utk mengambil gambar binatang atau tumbuhan. Anda boleh pergi ke zoo, taman bunga, kaki lima atau di rumah utk menghasilkan gambar yg baik.

Sekian. Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 14

2006-06-19T19:35:00.000+08:00

ALAM BENDA
...sambungan

Anda tidak perlu menggunakan peralatan yang mahal untuk menghasilkan gambar-gambar alam benda. Gunakan peralatan yang anda mampu atau yang ada di rumah dan lihat hasilnya.

Tripod juga merupakan alat yang amat diperlukan supaya anda boleh menggunakan saiz aperture yang kecil untuk zon ketajaman fokus yang luas. Bagi pengguna filem, gunakan filem berkelajuan rendah seperti ISO 50 atau ISO 100. Bagi pengguna kamera digital pula gunakan ISO100 atau ISO200. Untuk hasil yang menarik, dicadangkan untuk anda menggunakan lensa 50mm.

Latarbelakang subjek juga amat penting dan perlu diambil perhatian. Pilihlah latarbelakang yang sesuai.

Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 13

2006-06-17T12:46:00.000+08:00

ALAM BENDA

Jalinan garisan-garisan, bentuk, permukaan sesuatu objek atau benda-benda tergabung dalam penggambaran alam benda. Komposisi dan cahaya merupakan dua faktor penting. Sekiranya kedua-dua faktor ini digunakan dengan sebaik-baiknya, anda boleh mengubah sesuatu objek menjadi lebih menarik dan indah.

Untuk memulakan penggambaran alam benda, elok mulakan dengan sesuatu yang mudah yang menjadi hobi anda seperti setem, wang, kereta mainan dan lain-lain. Tugas ini memerlukan konsentrasi dan kesabaran. Jangan tergopoh gapah untuk menghasilkan sesuatu foto itu.

Dengan meletakkan objek-objek berdekatan tingkap, ia boleh menghasilkan gambar-gambar yang bermutu kerana cahaya dari luar tingkap sudah cukup terang dan asli. Gunakan kad berwarna cerah seperti polisterin untuk membalikkan cahaya ke subjek. Cara ini boleh menutup bayang-bayang hodoh pada subjek.

Bersambung…

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RAHSIA 12

2006-06-09T21:46:00.000+08:00

Lanskap (sambungan)

Untuk mengambil gambar lanskap, jika anda menggunakan filem, gunakan filem berkelajuan rendah seperti ISO 50 atau ISO 100 untuk warna yang lebih tepat dan mengurangkan kadar bintik.

Langit yang terang boleh mengelirukan bacaan cahaya meter pada kamera. Dengan itu, bacaan meter hendaklah dibuat pada bahagian bawah untuk mengatasi masalah itu. Ambil gambar dalam semua keadaan cuaca seperti hujan, berangin, kabus dan sebagainya. Jangan hanya pada waktu terang sahaja.

Jika anda menggunakan kamera SLR, untuk memastikan keseluruhan gambar jelas dan tajam, gunakan bukaan aperture yang kecil seperti f16 atau f22. Anda juga digalakkan menggunakan tripod dan cable release. Alat-alat ini berguna supaya kamera tidak bergoyang.

Cuba cari tempat yang jarang orang lalu dan anda tak perlu bawa peralatan yang banyak. Sebuah kamera dengan lensa sudut luas, lensa 50mm, lensa telefoto yang pendek dan tripod sudah memadai.

Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 11

2006-05-29T13:45:00.000+08:00

GAMBAR LANSKAP 2

Sambungan...

Untuk menghasilkan gambar lanskap yang menarik, lensa sudut luas amat sesuai digunakan kerana ia memberi skop yang amat luas. Hasilnya, ia boleh memberikan details yang lebih terperinci bagi lanskap yg hendak kita rakamkan itu. Contohnya, jika kita mengambil lanskap sawah padi, di samping memasukkan unsur langit, horizon, bukit bukau, dan sawah padi, kita juga boleh memperlihatkan helaian daun dan butir-buah padi di dalam satu keping gambar jika kita menggunakan lensa sudut luas.

Sekiranya ingin memasukkan kaki langit (horizon), anda boleh meletakkan kaki langit samada di tengah-tengah gambar, di atas atau di sebelah bawah mengikut imaginatif anda. Ia juga bergantung kepada apa yang sebenarnya ingin anda tonjolkan. Jika hendak menonjolkan awan yang berkepul dan kebiruan langit, letakkan horizon anda di bawah. Sebaliknya jika hendak menonjolkan permukaan pantai bersama sampan atau bukit bukau yang serba hijau, letakkan horizon anda di sebelah atas. Pasti gambar anda jadi sangat menarik.

Topik ini semakin menarik. Akan ada lagi sambungannya...

Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 10

2006-05-28T20:26:00.000+08:00

GAMBAR LANSKAP

Pengambilan gambar lanskap tidak terhad kepada pemandangan bukit-bukau, laut atau sawah padi sahaja kerana anda boleh memasukkan unsur-unsur seperti langit, air (sungai, laut, tasik dan sebagainya) serta bangunan.

Untuk gambar lanskap, anda tidak perlu pergi jauh kerana persekitaran tempat tinggal anda juga mempunyai keindahan tersendiri. Contohnya di tempat saya ada Air Terjun Sungai Tekali, Empangan Semenyih, Banjaran Titiwangsa, sawah padi di Beranang, Bangunan kilang di kawasan perindustrian Beranang, tasik di Bdr Tasik Kesuma, ladang getah di Rinching, dan banyak lagi.

Awal pagi dan waktu senja merupakan waktu yang sesuai untuk mengambil gambar lanskap. Antara sebabnya ialah ia berupaya memberi kesan cahaya yang berbeza dari biasa. Kabus di sebelah pagi, dan cahaya suram kemerahan di sebelah senja, pastinya memberi kesan emosi pada gambar yang dirakam. Keupayaan anda memberi PERASAAN pada gambar anda, pasti memberi impak yang besar pada mereka yang melihat. Itu kejayaan paling memuaskan pada setiap fotografer.

Topik ini ada sambungannya...

Sementara itu, Selamat Berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 9

2006-05-25T15:40:00.000+08:00

GAMBAR POTRET

Jika anda berhasrat untuk mengambil gambar potret secara close-up, elak dari menggunakan lensa wide-angle. Jika anda menggunakan lensa wide-angle, bukaan frame anda akan menjadi luas, dan ini menyebabkan
1. Subjek anda kelihatan kecil
2. Persekitaran/latar akan nampak lebih luas
3. Akan ada distortion pada wajah subjek anda (kelihatan mengembang atau menggelembung)

Untuk mengelakkan perkara itu dari terjadi, pastikan anda jarakkan diri anda dari subjek, kemudian gunakan optical zoom untuk zoom-in kepada subjek anda sehampirnya. Hasilnya 1. Wajah subjek anda akan kelihatan lebih normal/natural 2. Latar belakang akan menjadi lebih sempit dan menjadi kabur (blur). Ini akan menyebabkan subjek anda lebih stands-out, tanpa gangguan dari persekitaran.

(Nota: Elakkan dari menggunakan Digital Zoom, kerana ini akan menghasilkan kualiti gambar yang sangat rendah)

Untuk mendapat tonasi dan tone kulit yang lebih menarik, pastikan cahaya adalah mencukupi, dan gunakan flash pada kadar yang sangat rendah (fill-in flash), cukup sekadar menghilangkan bayang dan memberi sedikit cahaya pada mata anda (penyeri).

Selamat mencuba & Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 8

2006-05-24T08:29:00.000+08:00

PEMBALIKAN DARI AIR

Jika kita mengambil gambar di kawasan yang ada air, seperti di kolam renang, tasik, kolam ikan atau taman bunga, elemen air ini amat menarik untuk dimasukkan sekali di dalam gambar kita. Pembalikan yang dihasilkan oleh air sebenarnya boleh membuatkan subjek kita lebih menonjol.

Sebelum mengambil sebarang gambar, perhatikan jika terdapat air dipersekitaran lokasi anda. Pembalikan yang dihasilkan oleh cahaya matahari atau lampu, atau simbahan warna yang terhasil dari pembalikan pada air, akan memberikan kesan pencahayaan yang menarik ke atas gambar anda. Kesan yang sama juga boleh didapati selepas hari hujan.

Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 7

2006-05-23T07:15:00.000+08:00

MENGAMBIL GAMBAR KANAK-KANAK

Mengambil gambar kanak-kanak adalah tugas yang amat menarik. Reaksi mereka selalunya tidak dapat dijangkakan. Jangan paksa mereka untuk beraksi. Biar mereka berlagak sebagai diri mereka yang sebenarnya, dan ambil gambar mereka dalam keadaan kandid. Tapi sebelum itu bawa mereka ke tempat yang mempunyai latar yang menarik seperti di taman, pantai, kolam renang dan sebagainya. Berikan juga sesuatu yang kelihatan menarik untuk mereka pegang, seperti permainan yang berwarna-warni. Pastikan juga mereka memakai pakaian cantik yang berwarna terang. Tugaskan seseorang (kalau boleh ibu kanak-kanak) untuk memanggil mereka supaya menoleh ke arah kamera dan cuba buat mereka ketawa.

Kebaikan kamera digital ialah kita boleh mengambil gambar sebanyak mungkin, dan kemudian pilih yang terbaik sahaja. Kalau boleh sesi dilakukan diwaktu pagi kerana mereka masih segar dan ceria. Tapi awas, kanak-kanak cepat merasa letih dan jemu. Pastikan anda merancang sesi itu supaya ia tidak terlalu lama.

Untuk jurugambar, pastikan anda turun ke bawah supaya separas dengan mata mereka, sekalipun ke tahap meniarap di atas lantai. Jika boleh ambil gambar mereka dengan kerap untuk membiasakan mereka dengan kamera. Oleh itu gaya mereka akan lebih natural dan spontan semasa diambil gambar. Di sebabkan kanak-kanak dewasa dengan cepat, adalah baik untuk dijadikan amalan mengambil gambar mereka dari bayi hingga dewasa. Kalau boleh lakukannya setiap tahun, di tarikh yang sama, contohnya semasa hari pertama persekolahan di setiap awal tahun. So, have fun!

Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 6

2006-05-22T08:21:00.000+08:00

MEMILIH YANG TERPILIH

Antara kelebihan yang paling ketara bagi kamera digital ialah kemampuan untuk memadam gambar. Ambillah sebanyak mana gambar yang anda suka, dari segala sudut yang anda rasa menarik, dan kemudian padamkan mana-mana gambar yang anda tidak suka. Sesekali, lihat kembali gambar-gambar yang terkini, padamkan mana-mana yang tidak menarik, atau anda ada versi lebih menarik yang baru anda ambil. Simpan yang terbaik sahaja. Tindakan ini juga akan menjimatkan ruang di dalam kad memori anda. Jika ada peruntukan yang lebih, adalah baik untuk melabur dengan membeli kad memori bersaiz lebih besar.

Mengambil gambar dengan jumlah yang banyak juga sesuai apabila mengambil gambar berkumpulan. Dengan jumlah peserta yang ramai, pasti ada yang akan mengelip mata atau berpaling ke arah lain. Dengan jumlah gambar yang banyak, akan memudahkan anda memilih gambar yang paling perfect!

Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 5

2006-05-21T10:00:00.000+08:00

"PREDEFINED SCENE MODES"

Ramai di antara kita tahu bahawa kebanyakan kamera kini didatangkan dengan "selected mode" untuk memudahkan kita mengambil gambar (contoh: Cloudyday, landscape, indoor, full sun, night, sports).

Menukar mode kamera anda ke situasi semasa pastinya akan memberi hasil yang lebih menarik, disebabkan kamera anda akan berupaya untuk memilih kombinasi dedahan yang lebih sesuai yang terdiri dari shutter speed, apperture dan flash untuk memberi hasil gambar yang cantik.

Pengeluar kamera telah bekerja keras untuk menghasilkan modes yang berbeza demi memastikan produk mereka berkualiti. Oleh itu jangan takut untuk menggunakan "predefined scene modes" demi penghasilan gambar yang lebih berkualiti.

Selamat mencuba dan Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 4

2006-05-19T19:52:00.000+08:00

LARI DARI PARAS 'EYE LEVEL'

Kebanyakan kita biasanya mengambil gambar dari paras penglihatan kita (eye level). Kenyataannya hampir semua gambar di ambil pada paras eye-level. Untuk mendapat sudut yang lebih menarik, mengapa tidak kita mencuba untuk melihat sesuatu itu dari sudut yang berbeza.

Kalau tak percaya, bawa kamera anda serendah mungkin untuk mendapat pandangan dari low angle, atau naik ke atas kerusi atau tangga atau mana-mana tempat tinggi untuk mendapat pandangan dari high angle. Atau sengetkan kamera anda ke kiri atau ke kanan untuk memposisikan subjek anda supaya ia kelihatan menarik di dalam frame. Bergerak hampir atau jauhi subjek anda. Buatlah apa saja asalkan anda lari dari tradisi paras eye-level.

Pasti anda akan dapat melihat hasil yang amat menarik, yang pastinya lari dari kebiasaan kita bergambar. Selamat mencuba!

Wassalam & Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 3

2006-05-18T11:29:00.000+08:00

HAMPIRI SUBJEK ANDA

Percaya tak jika saya katakan bahawa gambar yang subjeknya hampir dengan anda adalah lebih menarik. Sebelum kita memetik shutter kamera kita, pastikan anda datang sehampir mungkin dengan subjek anda. Ini akan menonjolkan ekspresi muka sebenar subjek anda, samada mereka dalam keadaan gembira, duka, sedih atau ketawa. Segalanya akan tergambar dengan jelas di airmuka dan mata mereka.

Mereka selalu berkata, sekeping gambar membawa seribu cerita. Kilauan mata juga membawa seribu lara. Perbuatan ini juga boleh meminimumkan gangguan penumpuan ke atas subjek utama anda, kerana frame anda hanya akan dipenuhi dengan wajah-wajah subjek, yang pastikan lebih menarik untuk dilihat oleh sesiapa sahaja.

Jika anda tidak berpeluang untuk mendekati, gunakan samada optical zoom atau digital zoom yang selalunya terdapat di kamera anda. Tapi penggunaan digital zoom adalah tidak digalakkan kerana ia akan mengurangkan kualiti gambar di samping merendahkan tahap resolusi gambar.

Sekian untuk sementara. Selamat Berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 2

2006-05-18T10:39:00.000+08:00

PENCAHAYAAN DI DALAM RUMAH

Jika kita berada di dalam rumah, untuk memastikan tahap pencahayaan adalah mencukupi, selalunya kita akan menggunakan flash. Untuk mendapatkan gambar yang cantik, elakkan menembak flash secara tepat (direct). Direct flash akan menyebabkan gambar kita terlalu terang (tanpa sebarang tonasi terutama di bahagian muka), disertai bayang yang amat keras. Ini akan terjadi jika kita menggunakan built-in flash, yang selalunya dibina bersama kamera.

Jika anda menggunakan flash berasingan (sebagaimana yang selalu digunakan bersama kamera SLR), pastikan flash anda di arahkan ke siling rumah dan ditembak secara lantunan (bounce). Cahaya yang dihasilkan menggunakan teknik bounce akan lebih merata dan tidak menghasilkan bayang. Gambar anda juga akan menjadi cantik dan menarik.

Semasa mengambil gambar didalam rumah, pastikan juga semua lampu-lampu dipasangkan untuk membantu pencahayaan anda. Lebih menarik jika anda berupaya menggunakan cahaya semulajadi dengan menyuruh subjek anda berdiri di tepi tingkap. Pencahayaan begini boleh menghasilkan kontras yang tinggi dan menarik jika anda berhajat membuat gambar hitam-putih.

Sekian untuk sementara. Selamat berfotografi!

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RAHSIA 1

2006-05-18T10:11:00.000+08:00

PENCAHAYAAN

Pencahayaan memainkan peranan yang amat penting dalam fotografi. Tanpa pencahayaan yang cukup, gambar yang terhasil akan menjadi gelap dan terdapat grain, iaitu bintik-bintik hitam seperti pasir yang pastinya akan merosakkan gambar biar bagaimana cantik pun komposisi dan kedudukan subjek.

Jika anda membuat penggambaran di luar (outdoor), sumber pencahayaan utama adalah matahari. Oleh itu setiap kali hendak menghalakan kamera kepada subjek, PASTIKAN KEDUDUKAN MATAHARI ADALAH DI BELAKANG JURUGAMBAR, bukannya dibelakang subjek. Ini akan menyebabkan muka subjek anda termasuk latarbelakang akan menjadi terang akibat suluhan matahari. Masa yang paling sesuai ialah pada sebelah pagi atau petang, bilamana kekuatan cahaya tidak terlalu keras, dan tonasi dan bayang yang terhasil menjadikan gambar lebih menarik.

ELAKKAN penggambaran diwaktu tengahari (kecuali terpaksa), kerana matahari akan berkedudukan tepat di atas kepala kita. Di samping kekuatan cahaya yang sangat keras, ia akan menghasilkan bayang yang buruk terutama di bahagian muka kita. Walaubagaimana pun, ada cara untuk meminimumkan kekerasan bayang itu. Caranya... akan saya terangkan di lain masa.

Selamat berfotografi!

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